Walk for Wildlands

A Year Later

2009-06-11T03:21:00.005-04:00

It is hard to believe that it has been over a year since Jeramy, Mark and I set off from the California-Mexico border in hopes of walking the 2,600-plus miles to Canada on the Pacific Crest Trail. With no way of knowing what adventures or mishaps we would encounter and in anticipation of the journey ahead we began our hike in the early evening of April 29. Now, over a year later I find myself looking back gratefully and, at times, longingly at those months spent living, experiencing and walking some of what is left of the West’s wilderness. Jeramy and I finished the trail on October 13 in the cold yet beautiful snows of northern Washington, bringing to an end a spectacular journey.

Since that time we have moved to Portland, Oregon and have been lucky enough to find work that we each enjoy. We have also been lucky enough to enjoy a few more adventures on the PCT. Shortly after finishing our hike we headed back to southern Oregon to complete a stretch of trail we missed due to Jeramy’s foot injury. In late October last year we struck out again, this time walking south from Ashland, OR, with the intention of hiking roughly 100 miles back to where we reluctantly got off the trail just 20 miles shy of Etna, CA in August. It was wonderful to be out there again, after only two weeks off trail I already had begun to miss it. Although this hike did not end as we would have liked, it eased our transition back into the rhythms and realities of life in “civilization”.

Our temporary home under the bridge

Northern California

The hike itself was gorgeous, particularly hiking down into Seiad Valley and up out of the valley into the Marble Mountains. Our first night out of Seiad the rains came, it poured all night and continued into the next day. We walked along exposed, windy ridges, rain drenched and cold-to the point where fingers and hands were incapacitated and useless. This was not what I had hoped for. I had enough of the wet and cold in northern Washington. Fortunately the day we set out from Seiad Valley, hiking up the road to the trial head, we ran into a ranger who told us of a side-trail down off of the ridge should the weather turn. We reached this junction in mid-afternoon the first day of the storm and knowing the trail stayed up on the ridge for miles to come and that the storm was to continue and possibly get worse we-somewhat reluctantly-decided to head down. We hiked five miles down, though cow-grazed lands, and came to a seemingly abandoned road. We had hoped to hitch a ride out that evening but given the lack of traffic and the encroaching darkness the nearby bridge became more and more appealing. Crossing the bridge we followed the stairs down underneath. To our surprise there was a sandy and dry spot directly under the middle of the bridge. Watching the rainfall we set up camp and ate dinner. Grateful for protection from the elements we slept soundly-and dry. The next morning we easily hitched a ride out and made it to Yreka. That was our last experience on the trail until April of this year.

PCT class of 2008

At the border....again

Every year the official beginning of the thru-hiking season is marked by the Annual Day Zero PCT Kick-Off (ADZPCTKO). The kick-off takes place the last weekend of April at Lake Morena County Park, twenty waterless miles into the trail. It consists of hundreds of hikers, past, present and future gathering to celebrate, learn and share knowledge of the PCT. We did not attend last year and decided to check it out, knowing that we would see many of the friends we made last year. It was a wonderful reunion where we reconnected with many fellow hikers, including, Marty McFly, S.O.L, Jester, Rat, Coyote, HR Huff & Puff, Smooth Criminal, High Octane, D-card, Jessica, Squatch, Mssing Link and many others. I almost felt as if I was back on the trail, except for the fact we were sedentary, although Jeramy and I did manage to get a little hiking in.

We spent two nights hiking the first stretch of trail we missed last year due to a fire. At the time we were disappointed, not only that we would be missing some of the trial, but also because it is the first time the trail climbs out of the desert into the mountains.

Before the climb

So nice to see Yucca's again

The San Jacinto Mountains rise over 9,000 feet above the scorching desert floor and snow can remain in there through May, shaded by tall Ponderosa, Jeffery and Coulter Pines. We had looked forward to the transition and witnessing the subtle yet substantial changes that take place in the land as it moves vertically upwards, from desert to mountain.

We were very thankful to find the time to hike this thirty miles stretch of trail while in Southern California. It wonderful to be back on the trial, remembering the way it moves, slow and winding through the land, meandering almost. Remembering the sounds of birds, feet against dirt and rocks, walking with the sun, sleeping with the moon, days determined largely by where our next crucial life source could be found- water. In the evening, feeling our worked bodies as we sat down to eat a much anticipated and appreciated meal.

All of these feeling and memories came back in those two short days, bringing with it nostalgia. But being “out there” also brought back the challenging and trying mements too. Blistered feet, stifling heat, steep and difficult climbs, cold hands and feet, monotonous meals. Though somehow all of the physical and emotional challenges could never out-weigh the beauty and joy of such an experience. I suppose all of the difficult times are a part of what makes it all the more amazing and wonderful. I don’t think we can truly have joy without the flipside, hardship and pain.

And so our short excursion back on the PCT was as I had hoped it would be, amazingly beautiful yet challenging. The changes in the landscape from chaparral, cacti, lizards, and sand to pine and fir trees, boulders, snow, cliff ledges, and mountain springs all in a days walk was astounding. We also met a handful of current thru-hiker hopefuls. One man whose son had hiked it last year and whom we had known, another from Portland, OR. We shared stories from our experience and their excitement and anticipation of the journey ahead was infectious.

We ended our hike in the quaint, friendly town of Idyllwild, a lone mountain town surrounded by desert and a get-away destination for those in the valley. We stopped at the local food Co-op that we had discovered last year and grabbed a few snacks before hitching out of town, down into the heat. It took some time to get a ride, though not for lack of willing people, but rather that we were going further than they. Eventually we got a ride with a man, around our age, who was getting ready to hike the trail in a few weeks and was checking out trail towns, as they are known. He said there would be a film crew with him following and recording his journey. The trail never lacks interesting folk.

We made it to Interstate 10 where, after missing the last bus towards L.A we called our friends there who kindly came and picked us up.

And so we ended another stint on the PCT, though future plans will no doubt be hatched as we still have 150 miles left to hike in central and northern California before we can truly say we walked from Mexico to Canada:) Until next time.

Happy trails.

high adventure in the north cascades

2008-10-27T14:28:00.005-04:00

bobby lake

golden tamaracks
at the border

from the dried out desert heat and million wildflower shades of a southern california spring to the drenched-bright temperate forest fall on into the early winters of the rugged north cascade mountains, all the days, seasons, and changes that have unfolded on this winding old journey through the western landscape.
we set out into washington during a late summer warm spell, a week of clear blue skies and hot days as we moved north from the columbia gorge and past the cascading ice glaciers of mt. adams and the high peaks and passes of the goat rocks wilderness area. sitting beside lakes and in clear streams and high meadows, walking old forests, the alpine lit up with crimson blueberry fields and yellow-tipped grasses. we were thankful for the sunshine and realized it would be fleeting and surely it wasn't long before the rains came tumbling down, emptying from the skies as great billows of cloud covered and uncovered the mountains. in the central cascades the rain poured and we walked a landscape pocked with clearcut after clearcut, thick brush and young tree plantations soaking us to the bone as we pushed through. masses of huckleberries, douglas fir saplings, fungi emerging from intricate mycelial webs, our dripping raingear, the gray rains indifferent and drenching it all. howling out on the exposed western flank of blowout mountain, the wind pelting us, cloud vapor whipping by and we only could keep moving and accept the water, breathe in the cold, wake up in the morning, put on the wet layers and start it all again. eventually we passed through the cuts, returning to the cover of the old conifer forests, dark tree-tops cutting through the fog, western hemlock and red cedar canopies providing shelter, broad golden devil's club leaves catching the drips, vine maple all vivid yellow and red, the bracken ferns browning and fading.
further north we moved into the roadless areas of alpine lake and glacier peak wilderness. climbing and descending deep valleys cut by the sharp gray-blue fingers of glacier peak. its churning silt rivers leaving powerful marks on the land; thousands of scattered trees and massive swaths of disappeared riparian slopes that were sent tumbling to the sea during the devastating "1,000 year flood" of november 2003.
for the finale it was high adventure in the north cascades, waiting out 72 hours of snow with the wonderful people of mazama and winthrop, returning to rainy pass under clear blue skies, kicking through powder drifts, the cold sunshine bright on the peaks, silent old spiraled black stones glistening with the snows, wind rumbling by. we slowly walked a blank still trail unmarked by humans, only broken by the traveling tracks of the local inhabitants; deer, elk, cougar, coyote, bear, and scrambling chipmunks. three days of breaking trail, exhilarated, mindful, cold, and ecstatic along the open ridges and golden tamaracks, raptors sailing in the winds, enveloped by silence. our last full day out we climbed up to the crest of high lakeview ridge as the orange-red sun began to sink behind the mountains and lit the path. reaching the crest we see the near-full moon rising above jagged three fool's peak, its purple-blue light meeting the fading sun, and the whole land so lucid and beautiful, stone peaks, the steep valleys and rivers descending ocean-bound far below, amazed and humbled by the immensity, by the howling is-ness of it all.
what a process and experience to be able to take part in, reflecting on all the places and people and feeling so grateful for the opportunity. we crossed into canada the next afternoon, october 13th, spent a few hours at the border monument reading the register entries of friends and realizing the walk had come to its resolution. since then we've had warm, dry nights in hostels and the homes of friends and family, sitting beside woodstove fires considering the dark snowy mountains and blowing winds of the cascades and our friends still hiking there.
countless thanks to everyone who has participated and helped in the process of this trip. it has been wonderful to hear from you and to have your support along the way. many thanks to all who made the fundraiser a success as well, together we have raised over $2,000 and counting, closing in on raising $1 for every one of the 2,500 plus miles that we've walked.
today we are setting out for ashland to walk one more stretch of this trail, from southern oregon into california's marble mountain range. thanks to all, and we'll send an update when we have a chance. peace, jeramy

for many more pictures check out www.walkforwild.blogspot.com, and anyone still wishing to contribute to the fundraiser may do so at www.walkforwild.org

The End?

2008-10-23T18:50:00.014-04:00

At the border

Snow capped mountains from Grasshopper Pass

Jeramy at Cutthroat Pass, looking cool!

Bridge washed out in 2003, White Chuck River

Jeramy crossing the Suiattle River

Jeramy in Goat Rocks Wilderness, Mt. Rainier in back

Goats in Goat Rocks Wilderness

We have been finished hiking for 10 days now. Jeramy and I strolled up to the US-Canadian border on October 13th. It was a typical Northwest October day, cloudy and chilly with intermittent rain. Walking up to the wooden Northern Terminus monument was almost surreal. I had envisioned doing so countless times over the last 51/2 months. As I stood in the drizzling rain I looked back to the day we set off from the Southern Terminus monument, full of excitement to begin this journey, a little nervous knowing I would at times be miles from the comforts of modern day existence. "What if something happened out there? What if one of us broke our leg/ankle/etc.?" I mused. Despite my apprehension I knew I wanted to do this, I knew the experiences and memories would be worth all of the struggles, blisters, intense heat, huge climbs, rattle snake encounters, freezing cold nights, numb toes and fingers, etc, etc. I was not disappointed, it was well worth it, all of it.

I can look back on various journey's I have taken in my life, challenging situations I have intentionally placed myself in, knowing that the energy and hard work put into it will ultimately (hopefully) benefit others and myself. I have never regretted any of those experiences though some have left me wounded by the harsh realities and injustices I have witnessed. I am not one to pass up a challenging opportunity and this hike will be added to that list.

Our last few days out were some of the most exciting and nerve racking of the entire trip. We left the last town of the trail, Stehekin, and hiked 20 miles only to be forced off the trail by a freezing rain turned snow storm. Luckily we came to the last major road on the trail when the storm hit. We holed up in the only shelter available there, a small concrete trailhead restroom. As we stood there trying to warm up and eating the amazing pastries from the famous Stehekin bakery we discussed our options. Should we spend the night in the restroom? Set up camp where we were? Or try to hitch into town? The one thing we did know was that we did not want to continue hiking that day despite the fact that it was only noon. If we did we would climb up another 2,000 ft. and with 3 inches of snow fallen in an hour and a half that did not seem like an intelligent idea. Our decision was made easier when a man taking his new jeep for a test ride in the snow showed up outside our bathroom/shelter door. He knew exactly what we were doing and he chuckled to himself at the thought of us waiting out the storm in the bathroom. He gave us coffee to warm our hands and our insides and offered us a ride to the nearest town. In our stubbornness we could not make up our minds, though after sitting in his jeep warming my hands on the heater we decided that it was absurd not to accept his offer.

The closet town, Mazama, was 15 miles from the trail. It doesn't consist of much, a few hotels nestled in the trees and a general store that also serves as the town hub. Winthrop was another 15 miles further east, we had the chance visit both in our three days of waiting out the storm. Of all the towns on the trail these two are among my favorite. Some of the most friendly, kind-hearted people I have met live there. Getting around and between the two towns required no effort in spite of there being no public transit. I think we got 7 rides in total, not a single one did we stick a thumb out for. People offered us rides before we could even get that far and when we weren't even looking for rides. Brian, the owner of the independent bookstore in Winthrop, hiked the PCT in 1997 and after talking with him for a few minutes he offered to put us up for a night while we waited to go back out. Along the entire trail we experienced this, what is called "trail magic;" generous, giving folk who go out of the way to help out hikers. It never ceased to amaze me how many people we met along the way who offered up their time, energy and resources to help out the folks they saw walking around their towns looking slightly lost with a pack on their backs.

So after three days in Mazama/Winthrop waiting and discussing our options for finishing the trail we decided to take advantage of three days of good weather and go for it. Unsure of how much snow there would be up there or whether we would be able to see the trail well enough to follow it we bought some warmer gear and a few extra maps, we were as prepared as we could be. All we needed was for the weather report to be accurate.

When we got back to the trailhead at Rainy Pass there was more snow than there had been when we chose to bail out three days prior, but not enough to detour us, we were determined to finish. We were only 70 miles from the end! The first five miles were disheartening, it took us three hours to hike it. To give you a sense of how slow that is we usually averaged three miles an hour. So hiking a normal pace in those three hours we should have been able to cover nine miles, not five. Not very promising if we were to finish in the next three days before another storm came through. Yet we could see the trail ahead of us and it seemed that the snow, which had been up to our knees in parts, would not be that deep the entire way. Besides, it was absolutely gorgeous. Bright blue sky behind snow covered, craggy peaks on all sides. Not a sound, nor a foot print save for the occasional deer or elk track. We slowly pushed on, Jeramy in the lead breaking trail (making it significantly easier for me). With each ridge we crossed we could see the trail stretched out ahead of us and the chances of getting through in time became more and more likely. As we descended into the first valley we began to see more and more animal tracks, deer, elk, coyote, and cougar. Still no human tracks. At no point, other than the one road we crossed between Rainy Pass and trails end did we see other people. Just us, the mountains, snow, beautiful tamarack trees changing color and a consistent trail of animal tracks, of which I should add bear to the list.

The weather was on our side the entire time (minus the cold). We had beautiful sunny days with occasional cloud cover. Two of the three nights it rained/snowed slightly but nothing that significantly affected us. Those three days and nights were arguably some of our coldest on the entire trail. Of course we expected this when we set out from Rainy Pass, but anticipating cold is much different than experiencing it. Nature is unrelenting and unbiased. Not malicious, simply alive. And it will remind you that you too are alive, and to not take your life for granted. I was grateful not to be there alone. The coldest night of the three we cooked our dinner of instant mashed potatoes, spiced it as we like and by the time we got around to eating it was almost cold. It is always easier to deal with challenging circumstances together rather than alone, and I was grateful that I was eating cold mashed potatoes with Jeramy and not by myself.

Our last day full day out we hit the highest point on the trail in Washington, around 7,200 ft. Our goal was to make it over and down before Monday when the weather was suppose to turn again, we succeeded in that and saw one last amazing sunset. As we reached the high point the sun was setting. It was picturesque, only a few clouds in the sky, enough to tint the sky orange, yellow, and pink. To the east the moon was rising, almost full. We would have considered camping up there had there not been 2 feet of snow on the ground and completely exposed. We walked by the light of the moon down to the lake below and found a nice sheltered spot among the trees next to the half-frozen Hopkins Lake.

The next morning we had 15 miles to walk until we reached Manning Park, the end of the trail. We took our time, knowing it was our last day out. Eight miles before the end we reached the US-Canada border where the official end of the PCT is marked with the Northern Terminus Monument. We spent a few hours eating lunch, reading the entries that all our friends who had finished before us had written in the register, and doing a bit of a photo shoot. Usually I would not brag but since it was such an epic adventure I have to say that we were the first people to sign the register at the border in a week. Our friends had been the last ones to sign it on October 6th. Meaning that nobody had hiked through that storm and we were the first to do so after it hit. We had hoped that another couple that we had been hiking on and off with since southern California was right behind us but when we got into Manning Park we learned that a ranger had talked them out of hiking the final stretch.

Now here I am sitting on the couch wrapped up in warm clothes, inside my warm house, typing away on my computer and looking out the window at the beautiful, sunny day and trying to get used to the idea that I will not be spending the majority of my time outside contending with the elements and experiencing the seasons as they come and go. Remembering as I sit here not to take anything for granted. Whether it be shelter, warmth, dryness and a bed, or rain, sun, snow, hail, thunder, lightening and on and on.

We began walking April 29th, spring time, walked into the summer in the high Sierra's and continued the summer in the Cascades, fall came upon us quickly in the middle of Washington and by the end it felt like winter up there. I will miss the trail and the friends made on it. I will miss seeing the changes in the landscape and how it all folds into each other. It is hard to say that I will miss walking through miles of clear-cuts in freezing rain for days at a time, or the 104 degree days down south where it was too hot even sitting still in the shade or to walk in the sand barefoot, or the mornings I woke up with my boots and water frozen, but I will miss those days too.

We hope to get back out there at least one more time this year. We missed a stretch from Etna, CA to Ashland, OR., about 150 miles. Later this week or next, weather permitting, we will head back out for one last hike.

I want to say thank you all for the wonderful support along the way. I especially want to thank Ezra for setting up and maintaining the Walk for Wildlands website (www.walkforwild.org) and getting the word out about the fundraiser. As well as The Kiva and Hummingbird Wholesale, both located in Eugene, OR. We could not have done this hike without the massive amounts of food you helped supply us with. Thank you for your generous donations. Also, Kate, Jody and Rochelle for taking the time to send out the many food boxes that sustained us along the way.

And of course to everyone else, family and friends who provided moral support and encouragement for our hike and to those of you who donated to the Walk for Wildlands fundraiser. Also, if you have not donated but would like to it is not too late, we are still accepting donations. Visit www.walkforwild.org and click on the donate button, and remember to use www.goodsearch.com. Just write Walk for Wildlands as the organization you would like to donate to and each time you do a search they will donate to the project.

Thank you all again. Keep your eyes out for one more entry later next month!

Peace,
Serena

images from southern washington

2008-10-23T17:27:00.003-04:00

crossing the columbia: mainesail and serena

walupt creek-goat rocks wilderness
full moon night mt. tahoma (rainier)

images from oregon

2008-10-23T17:07:00.006-04:00

tunnel falls

mesa creek in sisters wilderness (top) paintbrush blooms

lava field near mckenzie pass (top) jefferson park below mt. jefferson

some pictures to hold you over

2008-09-21T11:24:00.009-04:00

Hi all,

It's Kate again. Jeramy and Serena are now in Washington and are closing in on their final destination. I spoke with Jer the other night and he asked me to post a few more California trail pictures. Also, he asked me to remind everyone that you can easily benefit Walk for Wildlands by using goodsearch.com for any web search (as opposed to Google, for instance) and selecting Walk for Wildlands as your charity of choice.

The hikers may not have access to the internet until after they've completed the trail, but if anyone is currently in the Pacific Northwest and interested in meeting up with them, I'll send you their itinerary - just shoot me an email at myrakatherine@gmail.com.

bring on the canucks!

2008-09-09T20:06:00.001-04:00

greetings all,

here we are, after all of these days and months of walking we find ourselves on the verge of crossing the columbia river and moving into the final stretch of this wandering journey through the cascade mountains of western washington. gradually, thoughtfully we move through changing landscapes and seasons, the sunlight fading, nights colder, wind with a bite and golden clear fall air surrounding us.
we pushed through northern california, hundreds of wildfires throughout the region and breathing in smoke-haze sky. through dry arid lands and and coniferous stands, weaving around mt. shasta, appearing and disappearing behind smoke blankets in the distance. slowly, daily feeling the change to the more temperate climate of the pacific northwest, dropping into deep ravines and finding the familiar species, tall old incense cedar rising through the mist, thick cracked-bark douglas fir groves, yew trees, moss-draped big leaf maple, sword and maidenhair ferns tucked into the shadows beside cool clear creeks.
near the california/oregon border i pulled up with an ankle injury, a strained tendon that was enough that i wasn't able to put weight on it. we hobbled to the next road crossing to find a fire crew sitting in preparation for the next call. after an attempt at walking on we turned back to catch a ride with a story-filled helicopter repairman. two days later we tried walking again and realized that my foot was going to need some rest. just over a week later we found ourselves in ashland, or with a lighter pack (sans guitar), clad with a new ankle brace, and 140 miles north of where we had gotten off trail (saving ourselves some october hiking). we spent a day with some hiker friends and then set off into the dry afternoon to begin walking again. the time lapse was evident all around us, wildflowers spent and crumbling in the heat, ripe patches of thimble and huckleberries, the days noticeably shorter, even new aches and pains and a seeming loss of our trail legs. within a few days they were back as was the methodical pace of walking and the forest...a slower reality than our high flying days in town and at eugene's indian lunch buffet.
traveling through serena's home region of western oregon, we stepped through the grasslands and forests of the cascade-siskiyou monument. awaking in the dark waning moon night there to the piercing howl scream of a cougar close by. adrenaline rushing and listening intently as it called out many times through the darkness. we spent the majority of two days passing through this landscape where the great basin and cascade and siskiyou mountain ranges meet, a patchwork of private and public lands, not yet funded enough to form a complete monument. days later we watched and listened as the red rising sun climbed over the mountains above crater lake, mats of clouds sailing overhead, incredibly blue marine water interacting with gusting winds and shifting patterns unfolding across the surface. swimming in lakes, rivers, and cold rains, a front moving through and wind driving snow specks as we crossed under the three sisters volcanoes, looking up to the rounded red peak of south sister before she was enveloped by clouds. thick forests, lake basins, renegade survivalist mosquito bands somehow braving the cold, big-berried bear scat, and the massive volcanic cascade mountains. along with this another familiar mark of the northwest, tracts and tracts of clear-cuts, old and new, walking through some active logging operations even, shrill machinery grinding and great old cedars and firs with spray paint markings of doom. we've scratched through these patches of choked brush and even-aged young spindling stands scarring the mountainsides from the trinity region up into oregon national forest and bureau of land management lands.
and now sitting beside the rolling columbia river, as close to sea level as we'll be along this trail, preparing for the washington cascades. with the final push of our hike before us we also hope to close the walk for wildlands fundraiser with success. each of the three projects and organizations will greatly benefit from any contribution, and sponsoring our hike will help to promote the completion of the cascade siskiyou monument through the pacific forest trust, protect the pct trail corridor with the pcta, and work to guide sound policy with the cascadia ecosystem advocates. please consider sponsoring this project at www.walkforwild.org as no contribution is too small or large.
thank you to all who have read, responded, contributed, and helped us along the way! serena and i will update more photos and journals as we are able through the final days of this venture. happy falltime, peace, jeramy

Oregon Walking

2008-09-09T16:39:00.000-04:00

Hello all,

I know it has been some time since I have written. There have been many beautiful sights seen and experiences to reflect on in these last few weeks. In late August, after almost four months of walking in California, we finally hit Oregon. Our entrance was a bit anti-climatic as Jeramy had a strained tendon and we had to take some time off for it to heal, thus we were unable to walk across the boarder into Oregon. Never the less it has been an incredible walk through my home state. I had been looking forward to it in anticipation, as there are so many places I had heard so much about and I would finally be able to experience them.

Our first stop out of Ashland was one of the most incredible places in the world, I believe. Crater Lake. Massive, peaceful and breath-taking. We were able to spend a day walking along part of the rim of the lake and spent the night on a bluff overlooking it. In the morning we woke as the sun was rising. One of the most beautiful sunrises I have ever seen. The clouds quickly moved in though and the rest of the day was spent getting glimpses of the lake through the clouds as we stood in the frigid wind. The wind rippling across the water combined with the clouds and sunlight trickling through created a surreal picture. I was hard to leave that place but the cold wind kept us moving. We hiked on towards. Mt. Thielsen, tall, rocky and pointed. We decided against climbing it as it was covered in clouds and probably about 30 degrees on top.

As we approached central Oregon I began to think back to my childhood spent at Waldo Lake in the summers and Odell Lake in the winters. The PCT hits the south shore of Odell lake and we spent and evening at Shelter Cove Resort. The next day we hiked up to Willamette Pass were Jeramy had been hoping to get some pizza for lunch at the ski lodge. Unfortunately they weren't serving food that day and we had to resign ourselves to eating the same old tortilla and cheese wraps for lunch.

The PCT does not pass directly by Waldo lake so I was unable to go swimming at one of most beautiful lakes in Oregon. However it does pass by a myriad of smaller lakes just east of Waldo that I had never seen before, the three Rosary lakes, Bobby lake and others that I can't remember the names of. Our hike between Odell lake and Santiam Pass (Highway 20) also took us past the Three Sisters. WOW! I had never hiked near those mountains before, only seen them from a distance. What gorges mountains. South sister with its red rocks we were able to catch the best views of. It turned out to be quite cold and stormy as we hiked passed the Sisters, but still absolutely amazing. We saw a rather large coyote carrying what appeared to be a rabbit in it's mouth, a huge buck running across a meadow and a grey horned owl.

Luckily we made it down off the Sisters before the worst of the storm hit. As we descended toward McKenzie Pass sleet and small snow flakes began to come down. We stopped by the Dee Wright Observatory and checked out the few mountains that weren't immersed in clouds than pressed on through the lava fields and passed Mt. Washington. We were on a mission to meet my mom at Santiam Pass that evening. The cold aided us in getting there, as it was too chilly to stop for long. Just long enough to stop at the 2000 mile marker and celebrate! I told her we would be there at 7pm and we rolled in at 7:06 pm. It was such a blessing to see her there walking out on the trail to meet us. We went into Bend for the night, got warm, ate some good food and got cleaned up. As seems to happen often in town we ended up staying longer than expected. We visited with some friends who lived there and Tuesday evening (Sept. 2nd.) got back on the trail.

This last stretch in Oregon we hiked passed Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson and Mt. Hood. All three mountains that I have also seen from a distance but never up close. Jefferson still had quite a bit of snow on it and we hiked over snow banks for the first times since we left the Sierra's way down in California. I imagine there will be more of that to come in Washington as it was such a big snow year. Unfortunately when the snow sticks around so too do the mosquito's. And there were a surprising amount of them for the Cascades in late August.

Our hike between Jefferson and Hood was relaxing and warm. The sun had decided to show her face again and we're hoping to have a few more of these days as we finish this amazing journey though Washington. We stopped at Timberline Lodge on Mt. Hood. You may remember the outside of the lodge from the movie "The Shining". The inside is even more incredible, built some time in the thirties and still looking very much the same. Our good friends Jody and Eli met us up there, brought our food box (thank you to those of you who have been so kind to send us our much needed sustenance) and hiked out with us for a night, we had a huge feast. It's always wonderful to have friends join us out here.

From there we hiked around Mt. Hood than began our decent to the Columbia River gorge. Down we went walking along the ridge with the wind whipping by as the sun set. It was a warmish wind but it was strong and camping was minimal and not too appealing with tall trees swaying above us. So we walked later than usual until we found a semi flat spot out of the wind to sleep.

The next morning we hiked into the gorge and took a detour from the PCT, down the Eagle Creek Trail. One of the most astounding trail in the gorge. Countless enormous water falls, some over 100 ft. tall splashing down into huge clear blue pools below. The trail itself in unbelievable. It was literally blasted into the side of a vertical cliff so at times you are walking next to a ledge that drops off 100 or more feet into the water. They have installed a cable to hold onto as you walk the most dangerous part. And the tunnel blasted through the rock behind a waterfall! Amazing. If you ever have the chance, check it out. And with that to finish up Oregon we hiked into the small town of Cascade Locks, where the Bridge of the Gods spans the Columbia River. Soon we will walk over that bridge and begin the home stretch of our hike. Washington. Only 508 miles to go.

I hope to have to chance to write again before we finish but we may have limited access to technology through Washington.

Remember to check out the website for more photographs and entries as well as to support the fundraising efforts.
You now have the ability to pledge per mile hiked. Check out the new link on the website at www.walkforwild.org
and please pass it along to others.

With love,
Serena

Oregon Walking

2008-09-09T14:36:00.014-04:00

Jeramy after swimming in Eagle Creek

Eagle Creek
Mt. Hood

Mt. Jefferson

Bobby Lake Sunrise

Crater Lake

Fog over Crater Lake

Sunrise over Crater Lake

Crater Lake

2008-08-14T18:15:00.006-04:00

Hello all,

We have almost made it to the California-Oregon border and are now in Eugene taking a few days off for a friends wedding and because Jeramy strained a tendon in his right foot. It's good to have a few full days off and give our bodies a rest. Though I look forward to getting back out there! Thank you all for the wonderful support you have shown us through out this journey. I hope you enjoy the photos.

Mt. Shasta from the South

Boiling Lake in Lassen National Park

Just before Sonora Pass

On top of Mather Pass, with the Palisade mountains in the background

Hut on top of Mt. Whitney

catching up on some pics

2008-08-14T17:23:00.009-04:00

crossing upper evolution creek

climb to muir pass and muir hut

feast at crabtree meadows courtesy ranger Rob Peleuski

fun on whitney

morning on olancha peak

More than half way and still in California

2008-07-29T18:23:00.000-04:00

We have finally surpassed our halfway point (unfortunately having to skip 100 miles to reach it, due to fire) and yet we are still in California. What an amazing journey it has been so far. I regret not having been able to write for sometime due to lack of access to technology. I won't try to re-cap everything here but just say that since my last post at Kennedy Meadows I have been witness to some of the most beautiful and spectacular landscapes I have ever seen.

Climbing snowy passes, slowly but surely, only to drop back down into hot, smokey and mosquito ridden valley's. Some days smoke so thick I could not see the mammoth mountains that lay in front of me. Eventually the granite rock yielded to the volcanic and I found myself walking over jagged hillside of strange rock formations shaded in red, green and brown. Growing throughout these hillsides were lush, bright fields of wildflowers and grasses. For three consecutive days rain pounded us as we walked over bluffs, at times with no tree cover, hiking as quickly as we could to avoid the thunder and lightning accompanying the dark purple/gray clouds and rain/hail showers.

We eventually hit South Lake Tahoe after our longest stretch without a town stop (only 7 1/2 days, but it feels like a long time when your pack weighs 40-45 lbs. at the beginning). Luckily for us Jeramy and I both had friends in the area. Our first day out of Lake Tahoe we hiked a mile and half before veering off trail to find the cabin of some old friends from Eugene. A little skeptical that we would find it with directions like "find the channel between the two lakes, yell across it and we'll come pick you up". Luckily we found the channel with a little help from one of the neighboring houses and sure enough on my second shout they heard me. It was a beautiful cabin on a rocky bluff over looking Upper Echo Lake. We joined them for a delicious dinner, chatted and caught up and as tempted as we were to stay the night we knew we couldn't if we were to make it 30 miles to Tahoe City by the next evening to meet up with one of Jeramy's old friends. And so with the moon almost full we left around 8:30pm to hike a few miles, leaving us only 27 for the next day.

In Tahoe City we took a much needed full day off, our first since Kennedy Meadows, 100's of miles ago. From there Kate joined us for a 30 mile stretch, hiking 20 of it in one day! We hope to have her join us again as well as many others once we get into Oregon and Washington. And now here in Old Station some 300 miles away from the Oregon border we have to hustle. Our goal is to make it to Ashland, Or by August 13th so that we can than head up north for the wonderful wedding party of Rochelle and Johan. Don't worry, we'll make it. Wish I had time to write more and share with you all more stories but I've got to get back on the trail and off the computer before it tries to break on me again.

oh, sorry for not posting photos but with this computer it would take about 2 hours. Kate did post some on the blog from the Sierra's. You can check them out at our website. www.walkforwild.org

Peace to all.

rambling on

2008-07-29T16:00:00.000-04:00

friends,

we're back for another brief taste of civilization, in old station, california staying with the wonderful heitman family amidst tents, treehouses, and hammocks nearly 1400 miles into the trail. not much time to write with a line of folks waiting for the computer, so just a quick little recount of our experiences in the high sierra.
walking the mountain peaks and shining snowmelt waters through in a world coming to life for another season. snow giving way to wildflowers and green meadows, clear cold waters with golden trout drifting the currents, marmots scanning the landscape atop the stones. silent alpine worlds through the sequoia and kings canyon park, sliding through the snow-ice and scrambling boulder channels we crossed the storied passes of the john muir trail. forester, glen, pinchot, mather, and muir. each with its own beauty and silence, snowbound at the highest points scraping into bright blue skies.
after leaving kennedy meadows we headed into the just burned clover wildfire, smoldering stumps beside the trail and gray dust ash covering the hillsides. a sunrise scramble up olancha mountain was our first high peak at 12,000+ feet. to the south smoke from the fire curling, east a barren desert valley, west the mountains of the kern plateau, and north the black snow-capped high sierra. we spent the summer solstice sitting below mt. whitney, beside timberline and guitar lakes, fresh crisp air, surrounded by granite walls. climbed to the peak the next day with clear morning skies and vivid clouds rolling in as the day passed.
the beauty continued to unfold as we walked through the sub-alpine forests, huge half-snag foxtail and lodgepole pines, bright red in the sun, somehow rising from the sand and stone slopes. desolate high lakes frozen and still and others glistening in the light, valleys carved by rumbling rivers deep below the peaks...much more beauty and peace than can be put to words...thats all i'll try for now. peace, jeramy

barker pass to donner pass

2008-07-23T13:44:00.003-04:00

Hi all, this is Kate, Jeramy's sister. I was able to join the thru-hikers this past weekend, completing about 30 miles of trail from Barker Pass (near Lake Tahoe) to Donner Pass after Jer & Serene had a break in Tahoe City. While there, Jeramy developed four rolls of amazing photos, a few of which I've posted below. More will likely be emailed or posted once J & S have internet access (probably in a few days, at Sierra City). They haven't had much access to computers since the Sierras, but are doing very well and have avoided the destructive fires. Unfortunately, about 100 miles of trail farther north are closed, so hikers are forced to hitch rides and skip ahead. But I'll let them tell you about that when they have a chance.

For my part, this past weekend was really spectacular. I headed to Tahoe with my cousins, quite unprepared for the hike I was hoping to squeeze in. My school backpack was hardly big enough to hold my clothes and some fresh fruit for the hikers, so I planned to carry my big LL Bean sleeping bag in a cloth grocery bag as I hiked. Luckily, I was lent a pack that included a spot for my sleeping bag, so Jer amended my name from "bag lady" to "the big purple" - and I made the trail register at Barker.

We left Chris at about 9 on Sunday morning and began what would seem to be a race against time (an Amtrak bus at 12:35 the next afternoon, 30 miles and a ride into town away). But the gentle (and sometimes not entirely gentle) climbs, arresting views as we walked for a time along ridges between the gorgeous mountains and lakes near Tahoe, and snippets of PCT: The Musical were well worth my now sore calves and aching shoulders.

I was struck by the rapid shifts between ecosystems/terrain - in hours, we moved from valleys filled with Washington Lilies through forest trails that could have been in the Northeast, to sweeping slopes struck by the evening and then early morning sun beams that penetrated cumulus clouds. Even the spotty rain showers that plagued us on Sunday evening couldn't dampen our spirits too much (though it was frustrating that every time I put on Jer's spare rainjacket - yet another article I'd neglected to bring - the rain stopped, and every time I took it off, drops fell...).

Trail hospitality was graciously extended to me as well as my brother and Serena, and I am very grateful to Molly for the ride down to Old Truckee. I beat my bus by 2 hours after powering through the last few miles on Monday morning, thanks in great part to Jer's fast pace. I only wish I'd had more time to spend on the trail - time to better acquaint myself with the interesting hikers I encountered, to become used to the weight of my pack on my shoulders, the guitar by the campfire, the full moon above us as we slept, the comfortable silence, spectacular views, and the daily excitement of not knowing exactly what lies ahead.

Anyone who has a weekend or a week should join these two. They are encouraging, will ensure that your trip is successful, that you stay warm and dry, and if your experience is anything like mine, you'll come home refreshed and inspired. I hope to be back out there with them at some point in August, if at all possible. And if this summer doesn't work for you, let me know when does - I know I'll be back on the trail (hopefully completing the whole thing, either in sections or in one go) eventually.

be well,

kate

**BIG THANKS to Salomon Sports for providing shoes for the trail for Jeramy & Serena!!**

more pictures

2008-07-23T12:59:00.006-04:00

clover fire

clover fire at night from ridge of olancha peak

atop olancha peak

foxtail pines in the southern sierra

timberline lake (top) and guitar lake (just above), on the climb to mt. whitney

looking west from mt. whitney

from forrester pass

some baden powell - kennedy meadows pictures (posted by kate)

2008-07-23T12:50:00.003-04:00

1500+ year old limber pine near the crest of mt. baden powell

burn area south of agua dulce

from right to left:

white buffalo man, marshall, mark, serena, jeramy

at the kennedy meadows general store

into the sierra

2008-06-17T15:17:00.000-04:00

friends,

the days and hills keep rolling on by as we walk and wander these southern california lands. we returned to the trail after the break in berkeley to find snow in the san gabriel mountains. a foot had fallen over 7000 feet and we sloshed through climbing to the summit of 9399 foot mt. baden powell. up into the clear alpine air and ancient old limber pines cragged and grown with the wind. clouds rolling through us atop the peak appearing and disappearing the mountains to the west. we walked westward through the san gabriel before dropping into the desert town of agua dulce. incredible hospitality continued as we stayed with the legendary saufley's at "hiker heaven" (www.hikerheaven.com). a couple who have been housing, cleaning, and resting pct hikers for over 10 years. their entire yard set up as a camp with canvas tents, trailers, coolers, free boxes, firepit, and a fleet of bicycles for trips to town. we stayed a night before walking through the heat to meet another set of legendary trail hosts, the anderson's, for an entirely different experience. we camped in the manzanita grove just beyond the tarped oil-wresting pit for two days of beer drinking, frisbee golfing, taco salad-filled debauchery. eventually made it out alive and the contrasts continued as we set back out into the heat and brush wilderness. that day while searching a dry stream for water i met white buffalo and marshall who were out for 5 days for a rite of passage inipi ceremony. our paths had brought us together and after speaking for a few minutes white buffalo invited us to join them for a sweat lodge. with that we were preparing for the sweat, serena, mark, and i gathering pine and cedar branches for the lodge, building a stone fire pit and cutting kindling. the wind hurtling by we carefully started a fire and began heating the stones. the sweat lasted well into the night, a beautiful experience to be a part of out on this walk.
the next day we dropped out of the oak forests atop liebre mountain and into the controversial route throught the mojave desert and antelope valley. cracking autos rusting in the fields, grass pushing through shattered computer monitors and sun-baked electronics on a stretch of trail that traverses private plots and yards and through the gnarled joshua tree forests that line the cemented l.a. aqueduct. we spent the day in howling wind and flying sands crossing this valley where the trail skirts the edges of the expansive tejon ranch. this 75 mile length of trail from the antelope valley to the tehachapi mountains and the southern sierra is mired in troubling land issues. conservation easements are slim and numerous signs warn walkers not to deviate from the trail tread under penalty of prosecution. these are some of the threatened spaces that we hope to help protect through our partnership with the pacifc crest trail association for the hike.
on we've walked through the long waterless stretches and the last of the desert country to reach the southern sierra range. steep scaping peaks, pinyon pine, old juniper, sage, hillsides of lupine returning health to burn sites, and eventually dropping into the valley of the south fork kern river. we find ourselves now in the settlement of kennedy meadows, 40-50 off the grid residents, most more grizzled than the hikers, solar panels, generators, a general store, and this silver cyber trailer where i'm typing. a great place to spend some before venturing out into the high country...with cold rivers, snow, and towering old mt. whitney looming ahead.

peace, jeramy

Heading for the Hills

2008-06-17T11:53:00.003-04:00

Today I find myself sitting in the quaint little town of Kennedy Meadows, it consists of a general store with a small diner restaurant attached to the store, surrounded by rising mountain peaks, though nothing compared to the mountains we are about to enter. Kennedy Meadows is the official end of the desert and the beginning of the Sierra mountains. We have traveled 700 miles to get here, walking the entire way through the hot, dry, water deprived and at times incredibly windy desert.

Today we set off, heading for the high country and beginning a new chapter of this journey. Soon we will be fording ice cold mountain rivers, swimming in glacial lakes surrounded by alpine forests and hiking the tallest mountain in the lower 48, Mt. Whitney, standing at 14,505 ft. As excited as I am to be entering the mountains I have loved being in the desert. Yes, there were time when it was so hot that the thought of walking made me sweat and all I could do was lay under the tiny piece of shade we found under a Joshua tree. All is all we were incredibly lucky with the whether, there were only a handful of days that I remember being too hot to walk, it could have been a lot worse. There were even days when it was cold.

When we returned to the trail after taking a short break in Berkeley we learned that there had been a large snow storm (for May) and Mt. Baden-Powell, the mountain we were to climb next was still covered in it. A little reluctantly we made our way to the top and it wasn't until we were half a mile from the summit that the trail disappeared completely and all I could see were footprints where people had scrambled straight up the mountain side. With some work and being very grateful that I had my trekking poles we made it to the top. The view was spectacular. Snowy peaks showing through the thick layers of clouds flying by. It was well worth the climb and not nearly as treacherous as I thought it would be.
Perhaps that was a little taste of what the Sierra's will be like, though I doubt there will be any fresh snow we will be breaking trail through as so many people have come before us.

Entering the Sierra's we also leave behind the desert wildlife, most notably rattlesnakes. We have encountered more than I can count. The last one we saw just the other day as we were walking past a small creek with barley a puddle of water in it. I stopped, thinking that perhaps this was where we needed to get water (one can never be too careful or picky when it comes to finding water in the desert) and upon closer inspection Jeramy noticed a large rattlesnake laid out over rocks and sticks with its head in the pool of water, drinking. It didn't notice us and so we slowly moved closer (still staying a safe distance away). We were able to watch it for over five minutes before it finally noticed us, curled up and began rattling. It seemed more irritated that we had disturbed its drinking of such a precious resource than the fact that we were so near to it and as soon as we backed away it went right back to drinking, as if it hadn't seen us at all.

I know rattlesnakes are not the only poisonous snake out there, but the only one that gives you ample warning when you are encroaching on its territory. This should be seen as a good thing, however I am still more jumpy around rattlers than I am around other snakes that don't make a sound but could very well be just as poisonous as a rattler. But this fact is easily forgotten when I hear that distinct sound.

The day we arrived in Kennedy Meadows we finally hit a major river, the Kern, the first body of water we have seen in weeks. Not being able to pass up the opportunity to take a dip we found a nice spot to stop and swim. The water felt cold at first but after getting in it was incredibly refreshing, especially after not having showered in a week. Afterwards we were sitting on the rocks relaxing and I noticed something out of the corner of my eye. Not more than three feet from me was the most colorful snake I have seen to date. It had bright bands of black, red and yellow and was about two and a half feet long. It was not a rattler so naturally I was not as concerned, though we didn't know if it was poisonous or not. We're still not sure what kind of snake it was but most likely it was a King snake, which is not poisonous. Either way it wasn't bothered by us gawking, it just went on its way trying to find shade from the hot sun.

While I am sure we are not out of snake country yet we are getting close (though rattlesnakes can live at around 7,000 ft and have been seen, albeit rarely, at 11,000 ft) and we have already seen signs of the wildlife to come. The other day, while coming down off a mountain through a forest of Pinyon Pine trees we saw bear tracks on the trail. Jeramy stopped and pointed them out to me. At first I wasn't sure what they were, I though maybe it was a person with really wide feet walking barefoot. It was the first time I had seen bear tracks before, they were large, and in strange way they did look like a human footprint. We stopped and looked around but there were no other signs of a bear. I was slightly relieved, though there is a part of me that is excited to see one (as long as it's not too close)!

And so today we head for the hills, with a little more gear than before (ice ax, bear canister and mosquito net) ready to experience all the magic, beauty and challenges that lie ahead.

Article in Eugene Weekly (May 1st 2008)

2008-05-24T20:48:00.005-04:00

EUGENE HIKERS HOPE TO HELP THE PCT

Last Friday, April 25, Jeramy Vallianos and Serena Becker left Eugene with 15 pounds of gear in their backpacks and boarded a plane to Los Angeles. The pair hopes to hit the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) trailhead, on the border of California and Mexico, early this week.

They plan to hike 15 to 25 miles a day along the Cascade Mountains, covering 2,650 miles from Mexico to Canada, arriving in late September. Vallianos and Becker hope to raise $10,000 for The Pacific Forest Trust, The Pacific Crest Association and Cascadia Ecosystem Advocates.

"Our main goal is to raise money to protect threatened landscapes" by buying land, says Vallianos. "It's important to be aware of how we impact wild ecosystems and how dependent we are on them." Vallianos and Becker want to spread the news by talking to people about the experience of walking the trail, writing and posting pictures on the Internet throughout the trip.

Becker and Vallianos have both worked in wilderness therapy and know how wilderness can affect people's lives. "I hope to inspire people to get out and experience nature and make positive changes in their lives," says Vallianos.

They have spent the last two months preparing for the trip, and now they are ready to hike.

"I think it's important for folks to get involved to maintain and expand wild spaces and natural communities," says Vallianos. "We love being outside, traveling, backpacking and try to find a way to do the thing we love and have an impact on something bigger."

You can follow their hike (and donate to the cause) by going to their website www.walkforwild.org

2008-06-01T10:17:00.002-04:00

entering the san gabriel mountains

big rattler

2008-06-01T10:03:00.005-04:00

Barrel Cactus, San Felipe Hills

chollo

A.T. '01 reunion with Buzzard and Wren

From the Desert to the Mountains

2008-05-26T02:00:00.009-04:00

After quite the drawn out and complicated transportation ordeal we made it to Berkeley for Jeramy's sister Chrissy's college graduation.

The last few weeks on the trail have been wonderful. I feel like I have finally begun to settle into the pace and lifestyle of hiking on a daily bases. My body has adjusted well, with the exception of the first week of painful blisters and achy legs. I can already feel the muscles in my legs getting stronger though. The mountains we have climbed thus far will surely pay off once we get to the Sierra's.

It is truly amazing to walk from the hot, dry, cactus and rattle snake ridden desert to the cool forests of the mountains and walk among pine and fir trees and even through the snow at times.

Our first encounter with real mountains was entering the San Jacinto Wilderness Area just outside of the cute mountain town of Idyllwild. That evening we camped near the highest point we will hit before entering the Sierra's, around 9,000 ft. I felt the effects of altitude sickness for the first time, luckily it didn't last long. In the San Jacinto's we hit our first snow and hiking down Fuller Ridge Jeramy took his first fall of the trip. We intend to keep tabs the entire way. Currently Jeramy is in the lead. Mark and I have no falls so far. I'm sure that will change though.

The climb down San Jacinto the following day was one of the windiest I have experienced. Perhaps this should not have been too surprising considering we walked through a wind farm in the valley below. After hiking through the wind swept valley below the San Jacintos we entered the San Gorgonio Wilderness Area. I had hoped it would be less windy on that side of the pass but we were out of luck.

Eventually, as we descended into Whitewater Canyon the wind began to die down. The San Gorgonio Wilderness was gorgeous. We followed Mission Creek up into the hills, winding through the canyon, crossing the creek over 20 times and watching life regenerate after a fire burned a large portion of the canyon not more than a few years ago.

The following day we hit Big Bear City, a smallish winter ski resort town. It was a wonderful place to stay, especially once we met Greyson, who ran the one hostel in town. He drove us to the grocery store and let all three of us borrow his cruiser bicycles. We took them for a stroll through town. My front tire was bent out of shape and it was not the most bike-friendly town, but it was fun riding a bike after only traveling by my own two feet for the past few weeks.

After leaving Big Bear we hit some of our hottest days yet. Luckily we were hiking along Deep Creek, a beautiful and strong flowing river rather. Though half of the time we were 100 ft above it on the trail. When we finally reached the spot where the trail and river met we were blessed to find an amazing swimming hole and natural hot springs flowing into the river. It may not sound appealing to sit in a hot spring with the temperature hovering around 100 degrees but it sure felt good on our aching bodies.

We camped that night just beyond the canyon at the only source of water around, a small spigot coming out of the ground. The next morning brought us to Silverwood Lake, a popular boating destination for city folk on the weekend. Sitting in the shade by the lake a crew of hikers slowing materialized. Everyone had the same idea we had. Get out of the sun and near the water. Common sense where we were hiking. We lounged around for awhile, killing time until the heat died down. We went swimming, ate lunch and eventually, reluctantly packed up and continued on our way.

The day before we hit our next town of Wrightwood we came to the I-15, a huge interstate located along the San Andreas fault. Hikers had been raving about this freeway for days. Apparently a McDonald's sat less than half a mile from the trail, an acceptable detour from the trail when food is concerned. McDonald's, not being quite my idea of food, did not entice me much. However I was willing to walk the extra half mile beyond McDonald's for Subway. Not much better, I know, but we all compromise when we're on the trail hiking 20 miles a day.

Not wanting to camp near the freeway and having only gone 6 miles that morning we chose to continue on, climbing again into the San Bernardino National Forest. We crossed over the San Andreas fault shortly after leaving I-15. I later learned that the rock formation we walked passed (the Mormon Rocks) has twin rocks 25 miles north of there, the split was created during past earthquakes. The last large quake in the area was over 150 years ago and it is said that they are long over due for another large earthquake. It is one of those things that is in the back of the minds of the residents around there. People talk about "earthquake weather" and stocking up on food just in case.

That night we camped at the top of the ridge after a long climb up. It was a beautiful view, snow caped San Antonio on one side and the rolling desert hills on the other. The next day we only had 13 miles left until Wrightwood and we had done most of the climbing the previous day. It felt like a breeze. Especially once we met our trail angle Bob who agreed to meet us at the road and give us a ride into town. While driving to town we learned Bob and his wife Maria regularly take in hikers and had housed 5 the night before. He offered us a place to stay that night and we didn't turn him down. It was more than I could have asked for. Maria cooked us a wonderful dinner, we took hot showers and left wearing clean clothes.

I've found that in every town we come to "trail magic" always appears. Each town we stop in we have encountered amazingly kind people who go out of there way to help us, make sure we have all that we need and ask nothing in return.

So after resting, eating and getting cleaned up we heading off to Berkeley to live the city life for a few days. Little did we know that getting there would be such an ordeal. But that's a story for another time.

2008-05-26T02:54:00.008-04:00

3+ weeks into this journey and getting into a solid rhythm of walking. rising each day with the sun, the slow process of it all step by step passing through waves of heat, the wind, lizards scattering snakes rattling and buzzards drifting the thermals overhead. switchbacking wandering our way through these diverse landscapes.
the deserts are beautiful, so many different complexities and network communities that we've experienced in just this small piece of time. the changes and transitions are constant...dry crackling sage and chaparral hillsides, cactus valleys, cool canyons with clear running waters passing oak and cottonwood, sliding through snow crisp air sub-alpine reaches of jeffery and ponderosa pine, incense cedar, white fir, and the vast stretches of land scorched by fire...canyons and mountainsides, skeletal seas of bleached branches slowly being enveloped by the new growth.
with rainfall this year an incredible bloom of wildflowers are covering the lands...vivid colors all around, paintbrush, lupine, lilac, the cactus flowers bright and miraculous, thousands of yucca blooms across the hillsides. inside and around it all hummingbirds, wasps, bees, ants, moths and butterflies hovering and dancing.
we've been humbled by the kindness and generosity extended our way throughout the trip. in wrightwood we met the moore family who took us into their home to share stories and food. at the big bear hostel (www.bigbearhostel.com) grayson toured us around the town and lent out some cruisers and we pedaled the town from china buffet to the health food store laughing in our puffy jackets.
and now after a wonderful little break with the family to see my sister graduate we start back at it...to continue being humbled, walking on through the landscapes, skies above and city lights below, in heat and hunger, tired, frustrated, elated, mind wandering to some dreamed up foodstuff, alongside the spaces of presence, walking meditation...small bodies passing slowly through canyons and mountains, tiny dust clouds gathering and disappearing with each footstep.

Another Eugene Weekly article

2008-05-24T20:56:00.002-04:00

Happening People

By the time you read this, Serena Becker and Jeramy Vallianos will be in the Sonoran Desert, beginning a six-month hike of the Pacific Crest Trail. "We spent two days putting food in boxes for friends to mail," says Vallianos. "Every week or so we'll go into a town to pick up a package." While in town, they will locate an Internet cafe to update the blog on their website, walkforwild.org "It's our first try at blogging," says Becker. "We want to raise awareness of PCT areas that need protection." A South Eugene grad, Becker got involved in human rights activism as a student at Evergreen State College. "I traveled to Rafah, in Gaza, with the Olympia-Rafah sister-city program," she notes. "Rachel Corrie, from Olympia, was killed in Rafah in 2003." In Olympia, she also met Vallianos, her boyfriend of five years, who had hiked the Appalachian Trail in 2001. The pair hopes to attract donations for the purchase of private land along the PCT. "Our goal is to raise $10,000," says Becker. "The money we raise will go to the Pacific Forest Trust to protect land in the Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument."

The first 100 miles

2008-05-07T21:16:00.008-04:00

We made it our first 100 miles. 110 to be exact. Today we are taking our first zero day (trail lingo for a day off) and relaxing at an isolated hot spring resort in the middle of the desert.

Here's a little snipped from the first leg of our travels-

We were dropped off at the trail head by our first trail angles,(those amazing people who go out of their way to do favors for hikers-such as leave soda and water in the middle of the desert)our good friends Tess and Teal.

As we were driving through the rolling hills scattered with rocks and boulders I was reminded of driving through the West Bank in Palestine. Soon we reached the small border town of Campo where we packed up one last box to mail to ourselves along the way.

It was just a short drive from there down the dirt road to the beginning of the trail head, where old wooden posts mark the start of the trail. The land is also marked with a fence/metal wall announcing the border between the US and Mexico. Just behind the tail head lay a barbed-wire fence, from each post hung a metal plate with a phrase along the lines of "in defence of America", beyond that lay a patrol road and a 20 foot high border wall. This scene extended in either direction as far as the eye could see.

I had always wanted to visit the border and see how it compared to the one Israel is constructing in the West Bank. Standing there, about to embark on a 2600+ journey to the border of Canada it somehow seemed an odd and surreal time to be thinking about politics and foreign policy. Yet even when looking for peace and solace it is not hard to see those things about humanity which sadden me.

As we were getting ready to leave we were visited separately by a border patrol agent and two nice elderly men picking up trash along the border. As they were leaving they told us to check out their website campominutemen.com. I was surprised to learn that they were minute men, (A militant anti-immigrant group who patrols the border for immigrants)they were nice and friendly and gave us advice about the trial, than again we are all white hikers.

When we were finally ready to go we said good bye to Teal and Tess and began our trek north. That first night we hiked only 4-5 miles and made camp off the trail so as not to attracted the attention of any border patrol or immigrants who are know to travel the PCT at night. Our evening was quite and we went to bed early as to be well rested for our 5:30am wake up call.

Hiking in the desert in the morning is beautiful. The mild temperature, morning bird songs and wild flowers was not at all what I had expected from reading the guide books. I imagined hiking through a desolate, sandy, dry and shadeless desert. Instead I was surrounded by small to medium sized trees, shrubs, cacti, large boulders, and gently rolling hills. I am quickly learning the subtleties within desert environments.

The use of this portion of the PCT as a thru-way for immigrants is also present. Every mile or so for the first 30+ miles we found abandoned clothes, water bottles, food wrappers with Spanish writing and what I thought were satchels made from woven Mexican blankets with rope attached. I later learned that these "satchels" were used as booties, to cover up their shoe prints. Our friend Mark also found a peso.

Needless to say the first portion of our journey has been a wonderful and challenging adventure. Tomorrow we press on northward, hoping that the blisters have had enough time to heal and that we have packed a little more food than the last stretch. Until next time.